My friend Jay Terauchi posted his Honolulu favorites: http://kahunaofthekitchen.blogspot.com. I've decided to counter with my own list. Note that this isn't what I would necessarily recommend to locals, but it is a combination list of the best along with the places a visitor would find easily and reliably.
16. Zippy's (several locations throughout Oahu). Jay mentioned this and while this is usually a local's choice mostly for convenience, it is a must for tourists: a coffee shop with local favorites. Wun Tun Min would be a top choice, as it delights many visitors from the mainland to find Asian style soup noodles in a coffee shop. Zippy's spaghetti is old school and satisfying, not unlike the kind you get in a good school cafeteria. Zippy's chili over rice is a local favorite, but if you are from Texas or Cincinnati, it's very different. The fried chicken is good, but note that it is thighs only - the dominant chicken part prepared in Hawaii.
15. Plate Lunch - L&L Drive In (several locations) or Dean's Drive Inn (Kaneohe). Plate lunches are ubiquitous in Hawaii, but if you are visiting, it's hard to pick which one. L&L is a reliable choice and you can find one almost anywhere on Oahu. If you want an outstanding plate lunch, go to Dean's. It's off the beaten track, but it is great: outstanding beef teriyaki and chopped steak, but splurge when they have the lamb chops (but not the leg of lamb).
14. Hot Dogs - Hank's Haute Dogs in Kakaako for the best taste and variety or Puka Dog for a unique Island treat. Hank's has amazing hot dogs and sides (Chicago, deep fried with bacon, the duck fries on weekends, etc.). Puka dog (Waikiki) is more of what you would imagine finding in Hawaii. The bun is kind of like sweet bread (the Portuguese kind, not the cranial variety), and instead of being split, a hole is pierced into one end (hence the name puka, which means hole in Hawaiian). You can either get a Polish dog or a vegetarian dog, and dress it up with such exotic condiments such as pineapple relish and Guava mustard. Yes...it actually works and tastes surprisingly good.
13. Pah Ke Chinese Restaurant in Kaneohe. The best food here is not the standard Chinese fare. The best food choices are the Hawaiian-Chinese dishes: call in advance and ask for the Chinese "Nachos." The scallops with the deep fried spinach are divine, and as I've said before, the desserts are among the world's best. If you are having a special occasion, such as a wedding rehearsal dinner, you will have an incredible meal if you arrange it in advance with Raymond, one of the owners. My niece, Laura, had her rehearsal dinner there, and I had originally thought just to order off the menu, but Raymond protested, and happily, I listened. We were treated to one of the most memorable meals I have ever had. My niece still talks about it! Spartan decor, great food.
12. Afternoon Tea at the Halekulani or the Sheraton Moana Surfrider. Afternoon tea is one of those truly relaxing and pleasant experiences that you share with good friends and family. Afternoon tea is a great tradition with my wife Becky and me, having first dated over afternoon tea at the old Trump's restaurant in L. A., and we've been to pretty much every afternoon tea service on Oahu. For us, the Halekulani is the best: very relaxed in a small, quiet and elegant setting, excellent service, and a delicious service of tea sandwiches, scones, and desserts with an extensive selection of tea. Some tourists, however, might prefer the Veranda at the Moana Surfrider, since it is alfresco dining on the porch overlooking Waikiki Beach. I have found the food to be not quite as good and the service uneven, but you certainly can't beat the view of the ocean, especially if you're from the freezing mainland at this time of the year.
11. La Mariana off of Sand Island Access Road. On the way there, you might feel as if you are being taken by the Mafia to get whacked, because this restaurant is in a remote industrial section near the docks. But it is a journey to yesterday. When you walk in, it is like a time warp to the 1950's. This is what your parents and grandparents from the mainland think Hawaii is supposed to look like. It's like a set from a Bob Hope/Bing Crosby Road movie (ask your parents or grandparents who those actors were), with big fan-like rattan chairs like Mr. Rourke from Fantasy Island used to sit in. There are cocktails served in cheap plaster of Paris tiki containers with the little umbrellas. You half-expect Elvis to make an appearance and burst into a chorus of "Blue Hawaii." Surprisingly, the food isn't bad, but you go there for the absolute ultimate in kitsch.
10. Hawaiian Food - Ono's, Helena's, Sam Choy's Breakfast, Lunch, and Crab (Fridays only). Don't think that you will get pineapple or some icky red sauce over some overly breaded shrimp at these places. Authentic Hawaiian food is very savory and delicious. Ono's and Helena's have terrific food, but the restaurants are tiny and the parking is difficult. Sam Choy's has a good Hawaiian plate on Fridays, in addition to other items. It's actually a favored place for many on any day, although I have never found the food to be especially good, except for the Hawaiian plate.
9. Shrimp Trucks. There are many all over Oahu, especially on the North Shore. Giovanni's in Kahuku used to be the best, but we've been disappointed the last few times we've been there compared to previous visits. If it's your first time, you'll probably like it, however. There are still tons of people who go. I've heard good things about Mackie's in Haleiwa, but haven't tried it personally. You might also try the roadside stands by the shrimp farms near Kahuku.
8. Saimin - Shiro's Saimin Haven or Boulevard Saimin. There are many saimin places and the arguments over which is best abound. For me, go to Shiro's for a plethora of choices and for the biggest bowl; go to Boulevard if you want a truly local experience with a good, if rather small, bowl.
7. Shave Ice - Waiola Shave Ice (two locations) or Shimazu's on School Street. Waiola has the best ice texture I have ever had. It's almost like pudding - it's so soft and fine. Shimazu's has the biggest shave ice (try the Big Larry if you dare) with good ice texture and probably better tasting flavors than Waiola (note that it is tricky to find parking). What about Matsumoto's? Well...if you must go there because everyone has told you to go there, okay, go ahead just to say you did it. But be prepared for a long wait to get hard, crunchy, sno-cone-like ice texture, albeit the flavors are pretty good. For me, it's all about the ice.
6. Malassadas - Leonard's (the main location is on Kapahulu near Waikiki, but there are also Leonard's Jr. trucks at different locations) or Agnes' Bake Shop (only in Kailua). Malassadas are Hawaii's answer to Krispy Kreme doughnuts (there is a Krispy Kreme in Hawaii, but it's on Maui). They are freshly fried and rolled in sugar. At Leonard's, the malassadas are lighter, softer, and eggier. You can also get them filled with things like chocolate or haupia (coconut pudding). Agnes's malassadas have a crunchier crust. They are both good.
5. Sushi - Sasabune, Yanagi Sushi, Yohei. Sushi is also ubiquitous in Hawaii, and there is a lot of debate about where you should go. Sasabune is probably the best. You must accept what the chef (known as the Sushi Nazi) gives you and DO NOT order a spicy tuna roll - you will be kicked out. You might also be prepared to take the deed to your house with you, as the bill can easily run triple digits per person. But it is fabulous sushi (I've not been to the Honolulu location, but have been to the West L. A. location). Yanagi Sushi is good and reliable. Yohei is probably the most authentic sushi at a fairly reasonable price.
4. Breakfast - Boot's and Kimos, Koa Pancake House, Cinnamon's, or Times Coffee Shop. See my review of these places in an earlier post. Pancakes, Portuguese sausage, sweet bread French toast are some of the things to order. The breakfast buffet at the Royal Hawaiian is good, but eating beachside with a spectacular view of Waikiki Beach is why you go there.
3. The Willows on Hausten Street near the University of Hawaii Manoa. A lovely setting with a nice buffet including Hawaiian, Japanese, and local favorites. There is a carving station and a terrific desserts table. A good nice occasion place which can double as the Hawaiian food destination if you are crunched for time.
2. Upscale dinner - Alan Wong, Hiroshi Eurasian Tapas, Hau Tree Lanai. Alan Wong consistently has the best food in Hawaii along with some of the higher prices. Hiroshi's is a little bit more reasonable and a lot of fun. The Hau Tree Lanai has good food but the draw is the alfresco dining, especially at sunset!
1. Side Street Inn. Just good food. The ambience is crowded bar and grill type.Get the pork chops, the lilikoi (passion fruit) baby back ribs, the manila clams, the steak, the furikake encrusted mahi-mahi or ahi, and for tradition's sake, the fried rice (I don't care for the fried rice as much, as it has a strong dashi taste, but many swear by it).
Bonus: as you're heading home and you need to bring back food gifts at the best prices, go to Costco for jars of Melemacs (macadamia nuts covered in toffee and chocolate), Candied Macadamia popcorn, and chocolate covered mac nuts. Sam's Club has Hershey's Macadamia Nut Kisses as well as some of the other items (the Melemacs are in the more traditional boxes).
Enjoy!
Grace and aloha,
Tom
P. S. While you are in Hawaii, I hope you'll consider worshiping at one of the churches here. Some of the best known are Kawaiahao Church (Hawaiian Congregational), Central Union (UCC), First Presyterian, New Hope Christian Fellowship (Four Square), and First United Methodist Church of Honolulu (the sanctuary was designed by Alfred Preis, who designed the Arizona Memorial at Pearl Harbor).
Of course, I would also invite you to Kailua United Methodist Church, 1110 Kailua Road in Kailua. We have a blended worship on Sunday mornings at 9:30 with Sunday School and nursery care for children from birth to sixth grade.
We have lovely grounds that received an award from the Lanikai Outdoor Circle. Next door to us is a Hawaiian sacred space called a heiau - it gives the feeling of being in ancient Hawaii. If you visit, I usually have time to give you a tour and would be delighted to do so.
Saturday, March 13, 2010
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Tom, I am printing off this post for a friend of mine, honeymooning on Ohau. Such a helpful writeup.
ReplyDeleteI must add Cocohead Cafe to the list, though!
Thanks!