Saturday, March 13, 2010

Top Tourist Food Destinations - Oahu

My friend Jay Terauchi posted his Honolulu favorites: http://kahunaofthekitchen.blogspot.com. I've decided to counter with my own list. Note that this isn't what I would necessarily recommend to locals, but it is a combination list of the best along with the places a visitor would find easily and reliably.

16. Zippy's (several locations throughout Oahu). Jay mentioned this and while this is usually a local's choice mostly for convenience, it is a must for tourists: a coffee shop with local favorites. Wun Tun Min would be a top choice, as it delights many visitors from the mainland to find Asian style soup noodles in a coffee shop. Zippy's spaghetti is old school and satisfying, not unlike the kind you get in a good school cafeteria. Zippy's chili over rice is a local favorite, but if you are from Texas or Cincinnati, it's very different. The fried chicken is good, but note that it is thighs only - the dominant chicken part prepared in Hawaii.

15. Plate Lunch - L&L Drive In (several locations) or Dean's Drive Inn (Kaneohe). Plate lunches are ubiquitous in Hawaii, but if you are visiting, it's hard to pick which one. L&L is a reliable choice and you can find one almost anywhere on Oahu. If you want an outstanding plate lunch, go to Dean's. It's off the beaten track, but it is great: outstanding beef teriyaki and chopped steak, but splurge when they have the lamb chops (but not the leg of lamb).

14. Hot Dogs - Hank's Haute Dogs in Kakaako for the best taste and variety or Puka Dog for a unique Island treat. Hank's has amazing hot dogs and sides (Chicago, deep fried with bacon, the duck fries on weekends, etc.). Puka dog (Waikiki) is more of what you would imagine finding in Hawaii. The bun is kind of like sweet bread (the Portuguese kind, not the cranial variety), and instead of being split, a hole is pierced into one end (hence the name puka, which means hole in Hawaiian). You can either get a Polish dog or a vegetarian dog, and dress it up with such exotic condiments such as pineapple relish and Guava mustard. Yes...it actually works and tastes surprisingly good.

13. Pah Ke Chinese Restaurant in Kaneohe. The best food here is not the standard Chinese fare. The best food choices are the Hawaiian-Chinese dishes: call in advance and ask for the Chinese "Nachos." The scallops with the deep fried spinach are divine, and as I've said before, the desserts are among the world's best. If you are having a special occasion, such as a wedding rehearsal dinner, you will have an incredible meal if you arrange it in advance with Raymond, one of the owners. My niece, Laura, had her rehearsal dinner there, and I had originally thought just to order off the menu, but Raymond protested, and happily, I listened. We were treated to one of the most memorable meals I have ever had. My niece still talks about it! Spartan decor, great food.

12. Afternoon Tea at the Halekulani or the Sheraton Moana Surfrider. Afternoon tea is one of those truly relaxing and pleasant experiences that you share with good friends and family. Afternoon tea is a great tradition with my wife Becky and me, having first dated over afternoon tea at the old Trump's restaurant in L. A., and we've been to pretty much every afternoon tea service on Oahu. For us, the Halekulani is the best: very relaxed in a small, quiet and elegant setting, excellent service, and a delicious service of tea sandwiches, scones, and desserts with an extensive selection of tea. Some tourists, however, might prefer the Veranda at the Moana Surfrider, since it is alfresco dining on the porch overlooking Waikiki Beach. I have found the food to be not quite as good and the service uneven, but you certainly can't beat the view of the ocean, especially if you're from the freezing mainland at this time of the year.

11. La Mariana off of Sand Island Access Road. On the way there, you might feel as if you are being taken by the Mafia to get whacked, because this restaurant is in a remote industrial section near the docks. But it is a journey to yesterday. When you walk in, it is like a time warp to the 1950's. This is what your parents and grandparents from the mainland think Hawaii is supposed to look like. It's like a set from a Bob Hope/Bing Crosby Road movie (ask your parents or grandparents who those actors were), with big fan-like rattan chairs like Mr. Rourke from Fantasy Island used to sit in. There are cocktails served in cheap plaster of Paris tiki containers with the little umbrellas. You half-expect Elvis to make an appearance and burst into a chorus of "Blue Hawaii." Surprisingly, the food isn't bad, but you go there for the absolute ultimate in kitsch.

10. Hawaiian Food - Ono's, Helena's, Sam Choy's Breakfast, Lunch, and Crab (Fridays only). Don't think that you will get pineapple or some icky red sauce over some overly breaded shrimp at these places. Authentic Hawaiian food is very savory and delicious. Ono's and Helena's have terrific food, but the restaurants are tiny and the parking is difficult. Sam Choy's has a good Hawaiian plate on Fridays, in addition to other items. It's actually a favored place for many on any day, although I have never found the food to be especially good, except for the Hawaiian plate.

9. Shrimp Trucks. There are many all over Oahu, especially on the North Shore. Giovanni's in Kahuku used to be the best, but we've been disappointed the last few times we've been there compared to previous visits. If it's your first time, you'll probably like it, however. There are still tons of people who go. I've heard good things about Mackie's in Haleiwa, but haven't tried it personally. You might also try the roadside stands by the shrimp farms near Kahuku.

8. Saimin - Shiro's Saimin Haven or Boulevard Saimin. There are many saimin places and the arguments over which is best abound. For me, go to Shiro's for a plethora of choices and for the biggest bowl; go to Boulevard if you want a truly local experience with a good, if rather small, bowl.

7. Shave Ice - Waiola Shave Ice (two locations) or Shimazu's on School Street. Waiola has the best ice texture I have ever had. It's almost like pudding - it's so soft and fine. Shimazu's has the biggest shave ice (try the Big Larry if you dare) with good ice texture and probably better tasting flavors than Waiola (note that it is tricky to find parking). What about Matsumoto's? Well...if you must go there because everyone has told you to go there, okay, go ahead just to say you did it. But be prepared for a long wait to get hard, crunchy, sno-cone-like ice texture, albeit the flavors are pretty good. For me, it's all about the ice.

6. Malassadas - Leonard's (the main location is on Kapahulu near Waikiki, but there are also Leonard's Jr. trucks at different locations) or Agnes' Bake Shop (only in Kailua). Malassadas are Hawaii's answer to Krispy Kreme doughnuts (there is a Krispy Kreme in Hawaii, but it's on Maui). They are freshly fried and rolled in sugar. At Leonard's, the malassadas are lighter, softer, and eggier. You can also get them filled with things like chocolate or haupia (coconut pudding). Agnes's malassadas have a crunchier crust. They are both good.

5. Sushi - Sasabune, Yanagi Sushi, Yohei. Sushi is also ubiquitous in Hawaii, and there is a lot of debate about where you should go. Sasabune is probably the best. You must accept what the chef (known as the Sushi Nazi) gives you and DO NOT order a spicy tuna roll - you will be kicked out. You might also be prepared to take the deed to your house with you, as the bill can easily run triple digits per person. But it is fabulous sushi (I've not been to the Honolulu location, but have been to the West L. A. location). Yanagi Sushi is good and reliable. Yohei is probably the most authentic sushi at a fairly reasonable price.

4. Breakfast - Boot's and Kimos, Koa Pancake House, Cinnamon's, or Times Coffee Shop. See my review of these places in an earlier post. Pancakes, Portuguese sausage, sweet bread French toast are some of the things to order. The breakfast buffet at the Royal Hawaiian is good, but eating beachside with a spectacular view of Waikiki Beach is why you go there.

3. The Willows on Hausten Street near the University of Hawaii Manoa. A lovely setting with a nice buffet including Hawaiian, Japanese, and local favorites. There is a carving station and a terrific desserts table. A good nice occasion place which can double as the Hawaiian food destination if you are crunched for time.

2. Upscale dinner - Alan Wong, Hiroshi Eurasian Tapas, Hau Tree Lanai. Alan Wong consistently has the best food in Hawaii along with some of the higher prices. Hiroshi's is a little bit more reasonable and a lot of fun. The Hau Tree Lanai has good food but the draw is the alfresco dining, especially at sunset!

1. Side Street Inn. Just good food. The ambience is crowded bar and grill type.Get the pork chops, the lilikoi (passion fruit) baby back ribs, the manila clams, the steak, the furikake encrusted mahi-mahi or ahi, and for tradition's sake, the fried rice (I don't care for the fried rice as much, as it has a strong dashi taste, but many swear by it).

Bonus: as you're heading home and you need to bring back food gifts at the best prices, go to Costco for jars of Melemacs (macadamia nuts covered in toffee and chocolate), Candied Macadamia popcorn, and chocolate covered mac nuts. Sam's Club has Hershey's Macadamia Nut Kisses as well as some of the other items (the Melemacs are in the more traditional boxes).

Enjoy!

Grace and aloha,

Tom

P. S. While you are in Hawaii, I hope you'll consider worshiping at one of the churches here. Some of the best known are Kawaiahao Church (Hawaiian Congregational), Central Union (UCC), First Presyterian, New Hope Christian Fellowship (Four Square), and First United Methodist Church of Honolulu (the sanctuary was designed by Alfred Preis, who designed the Arizona Memorial at Pearl Harbor).

Of course, I would also invite you to Kailua United Methodist Church, 1110 Kailua Road in Kailua. We have a blended worship on Sunday mornings at 9:30 with Sunday School and nursery care for children from birth to sixth grade.

We have lovely grounds that received an award from the Lanikai Outdoor Circle. Next door to us is a Hawaiian sacred space called a heiau - it gives the feeling of being in ancient Hawaii. If you visit, I usually have time to give you a tour and would be delighted to do so.

Thursday, March 11, 2010

Firefly Bistro - A Delightful Discovery

I've been in Pasadena, California, for my first face to face meeting in my new position as district superintendent for Hawaii United Methodist churches (it doesn't start until July, but the bishop is asking me to come to meetings now).

I was treated to a welcome dinner at a New American restaurant called the Firefly Bistro: http://www.eatatfirefly.com. I had no idea what to expect. It was a delightful discovery.

The restaurant is basically a space with a permanent canopy so it gives you the impression of what I imagine a wedding reception in the gardens of a Greenwich, Connecticut, mansion would be like. It's really a cool looking space.

But the food is outstanding. The Zagat Guide had mixed reviews, but the dozen or so of us who were at the meal just loved it.

The appetizers we tried were excellent: warm olives with a fennel and oregano salad, marinated blue cheese, and confit of dried tomato; Spicy Butternut Squash Doughnuts with toasted walnut-madras curry dip and oregano honey. That curry dip was so good, that even after the appetizer plates were cleared, we kept the ramekin of dip to spread on our bread.

There were four entrees that we tried and I got a taste of each. One person got the Chinese BBQ Pork Chop with scallion-ginger pan seared potatoes and marinated bean sprouts - it was fine, but it was the kind of food that my wife makes better. There were shrimp and grits, a classic Southern dish, which was good. I had the Slow Roasted Lamb Shank over buttered parsnips, charred shallot gremolata, parsnip chips, and red wine lamb reduction - it was very good, if a bit too much of a vinegary taste at times.

But the star of the show was the Pecan Coated Catfish over sweet potato-Andouille hash, with firefly collard greens, and mustard pan sauce. The fish was cooked perfectly and the flavor was great. Even better were the sweet potatoes and greens - they had a nice spicy kick to them that I just loved.

Appetizers in the $9-11 dollar range, with entrees from about $17-28. The catfish dish was among the least expensive at $17.50, so definitely a winner on all counts.

Grace and aloha,

Tom

P. S. the restaurant was suggested by the Rev. Jim Conn, who is retiring this year from active ministry. For the past few years he has served as the urban strategist and the director of new ministries for the United Methodist Church in our area.

Before that, he was the pastor of the Church in Ocean Park, a ground breaking ministry in Santa Monica for 19 years. A truly unique church, it was on the cutting edge for attracting very unchurched people with an extremely untraditional style of services.

Jim initiated a dozen social service projects and community organizations and also served on the City Council and as Mayor of the City of Santa Monica. His groundbreaking vision and ideas have placed him as one of the most influential progressives the Los Angeles area has ever known.

On top of that, he is one of the most delightful human beings I have ever known (his wife, Susan, is great as well - she frequents farmers' markets so how can you not love her?). He is certainly an example of a practitioner of religion who can be effective without being dogmatic, rigid, and judgmental.

Thanks, Jim, for showing us for so many years just how it is done!

Wednesday, March 3, 2010

Vietnamese in Kailua - Surprisingly Good

I tread carefully when talking about Vietnamese food because I am a novice with this cuisine. But it's one of my favorites and I frequent a couple of places in Kailua.

The most famous Vietnamese dish among Americans would have to be pho. Here in Hawaii, To Chau on River Street near Nimitz Highway has long been considered to have the best. There is a line outside all of the time. If you come during the early afternoon, you should get nervous, because as soon as the soup stock runs out, the restaurant closes. That's one way of knowing there is good food in a restaurant - when they really don't care about keeping the stated hours - or about you - and only staying open until the menu item is gone.

In Kailua, there are three places I've been to: Bale in the Don Quijote Shopping Center (purportedly soon to be turned into a Target); Saigon Noodle House in the Enchanted Lake Shopping Center; and What the "Pho," (the name does give me pause!) in Enchanted Lake in the same strip mall as The Shack.

I was given a recommendation that the Vietnamese beef stew at What the "Pho" was supposed to be the best. Well...the server said he didn't have it, so they either didn't have it, or I didn't know what the correct name of it was. I decided to order a bowl of pho with well done brisket and slices of eye of round. The broth has a more pronounced flavor than the other two places in Kailua, but not necessarily better. It was an enjoyable bowl, but I guess I was a tad disappointed because I couldn't get the beef stew.

I go to Bale most often, partly because it is closer to the church than the other two, but also because they are by far the friendliest people, among the friendliest I have ever experienced in any restaurant anywhere. They are just SO nice. The pho is fine, but when I go there, I usually get one of the vermicelli plates, usually with lemongrass chicken, or with shrimp, BBQ pork, and spring rolls. When I am in a vegetarian mood (which usually happens when I feel that my cholesterol level has risen with a massive intake of red meat), I'll have the lemongrass tofu plate, which leaves me very satisfied and filled, unlike many other vegetarian meals I have had.

Saigon Noodle House's standard pho is again fine, and I've had some of their plates, which are good, especially the garlic chicken or shrimp, but when I go there now, I only get one thing: the beef stew pho. To paraphrase the old Wrigley's Doublemint gum commercial: it's like two...two...two kinds of comfort food in one! You get a bowl of noodles with the standard pho accompaniments - a wedge of citrus fruit, bean sprouts and basil (Saigon Noodle House, like To Chau, also gives you saw leaf, which is not unlike cilantro) - and you get Vietnamese beef stew in the same bowl! Tender chunks of beef with some carrots, tendon, and what seems like cabbage along with the noodle soup is just one of the best things ever and a bargain at $7.95!!

The verdict? I'll go to Saigon Noodle House anytime for the beef stew pho, then when I feel my arteries clogging up, I'll go to Bale for the lemongrass tofu plate. Then if Kanani (one of my most faithful readers) can ask her husband to figure out what's happening at What the "Pho," I'll try it again, but not until then.

Grace and aloha,

Tom

P. S. We dodged a bullet in Hawaii with the tsunami, but Chile was devastated. Once again, the United Methodist Committee on Relief has a way to respond with 100% of you donation going to relief efforts (this is because the United Methodist Church has a built in administrative structure): http://secure.gbgm-umc.org/donations/umcor/donate.cfm?code=3021178. Thank for helping.